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Innovation - Evo gets a shocking rebirth


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#1 Kroric

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Posted 16 June 2016 - 07:56 AM

Another one of those crazy builds like the last one I posted. Figured I would tranfer this one here though cause I think this build is just too cool! Im just going to do a page at a time though. Because he is already 21 pages into his thread on EvoM. And I figured this would cut out all the chit-chat and get you straight to the good stuff.


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I thought it would be satisfying to chronicle my efforts as a way of tracking progress. I hope readers find it to be entertaining, perhaps informative and hopefully inspiring.


The subject of this thread was purchased from an online auction. It lived a long and happy life out west before being sold to someone in NY state who wrecked it shortly after purchase. Its quite obvious that the last owner didn't do much to maintain the interior of the vehicle as I found melted candies, animal hair, stains of unknown origin, cigarette burn holes, lots of trash, over $1 in loose change etc. This car was rusting away on an auction lot in NY destined for a gloomy future. I thought it would be perfect for a little project I had in mind.


Its arrival


An abused 2005 GG MR
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What is that under the hood?
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Well it appears to be a Honda SOHC POS, what a surprise!
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Step one was obvious, remove the turd from the engine bay and wash the New York off of her.

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Rad support is toast. Nothing says 'abused' more than the 3 different types of wheels.
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Lame-ectomy and bath complete, tucked into bed.
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Appraising the interior

In a word: $hit.
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Even with the carpet out it still smells like hair gel and fist bumpin
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Destined for a thorough cleaning
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A testament to the 'fragrance' in the car, my cat couldn't get enough of that stank
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Seat on the operating table
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Looking a bit cleaner
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Its twisted


Passenger frame rail bent about 1" up, in front of the strut tower thankfully.
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Physics can be fun!
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10,000psi of ramming, days of hammering and a bottle's worth of propane torching later...
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Next step is to remove that nasty radiator support.

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OEM goodness


New rad support arrived from Mitsu! Here it is mocked up. I'm awaiting fender, headlights and front bumper so I can make sure all body panels line up before I tack it on there.


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Parts influx


Ever wonder what those super cheap (~$190) FRP OEM replacement bumper covers from Extreme Dimensions actually look like? I hesitate to call it an OEM replacement. It is more like an 'OEM inspired' replacement.


There are no mounting holes, none. The two slits above the main FMIC inlet are not inlets they are depressions and the 'high quality' mesh that came with the piece was very optimistically attempting to redefine the term 'high quality,' so I ditched it.


On the positive side, it does look just like an evo 9 front bumper cover from about 10 feet away. It is MUCH more flexible and resilient than fiberglass and about 30% the cost of a urethane polymer variant.


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New eyeballs


Big thanks to SSMCL9!


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Clay bar and wax


Its much more fun if you can do it on the couch with a beer
(as is most anything else I suppose).


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END OF PAGE 1

2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IX //// 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart //// 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage LS //// 1990 Mazda Miata MX-5


#2 bluegrassz

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Posted 16 June 2016 - 08:11 AM

Looks like a interesting build. Straightening the frame rail look like something I would have done. :)

#3 Kroric

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Posted 16 June 2016 - 08:20 AM

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Work...


and school have been monopolizing my time lately, so I haven't been able to spend as much time on the evo as I'd like.


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Lots of cleaning in my near future


All I lack is the drive shaft and all the annoying hardware to bolt it all in. Time to go consult the shop manual and order some bolts!




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Black water


Vacuumed the carpet 3 times. Afterwards, my brother-in-law (who is an Evo detailing boss) hit it with his carpet cleaning machine. Just look at the water, WOW!




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Out with the old...


Ripped the fuel tank, pump and evap hardware out. Filler neck will come out too, but I think I'll cut it to make removal as painless as possible.


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$2 of steel plus some Mitsu barcodes


Some rather expensive hardware to mount the rear diff. 2 bolts and 4 stoppers ran me $60 :o




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END OF PAGE 2

2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IX //// 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart //// 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage LS //// 1990 Mazda Miata MX-5


#4 Kroric

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Posted 16 June 2016 - 08:28 AM

Had to at least make it to this page before quitting for a bit.


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Interior plastics TLC


Cleaned and conditioned every interior plastic trim piece, except for the main dash piece. I'm hoping next weekend to remove the dash panel and clean that too.

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Kitty agrees, the clean carpet was worth the effort :D

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Differential love


A before/after contrast and comparison shot:


I went through 4 LiPo battery charge cycles on my drill using a wire brush attachment, then hit it with some welding brushes, brake clean and more brushing. Couldn't quite remove all the rust, but got it looking a bit better. Finally, I hit it with some Rustoleum to prevent further oxidation. Now she is ready to mount!






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Underbelly of the beast


Looking pretty empty underneath! I still need to remove the fuel lines.




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More signs of a deprived past.


I was set to install the rear differential, but when I saw the state of the mustache bar, I knew I had to rip it out and give it the treatment. It appears that I'll be able to remove the gas filler neck without cutting once the mustache bar is out. This is a plus, because that means it will be marketable and you never know who might need a random part for another evo resurrection!




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*zipping up my flame suit*


So I was debating when to show this picture. I guess now is as good a time as any. Here is a pic of the motor that will serve as the power plant for my resurrection. It is a Netgain Warp 11" DC Series motor, made in the USA! This is the High Voltage variant complete with inter-poles from the factory.



I suppose I should pre-emptively answer a few questions:


No, I'm not a pious hippy saving the planet 'one car at a time.' My last fun car had a 4" catless exhaust, open wastegate and a C16 tune.


Al Gore can kiss my ass.


Yes, I love turbo ICE vehicles.


Because I wanted to create something stealthy.


475hp and 405tq at zero rpm. No that's not a typo, 405tq at zero rpm :D








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Here is another pic of the motor next to the smaller PMDC motor in my kart.


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I suppose this constitutes the Innovation portion of my thread, since I'm not aware of another electric powered evo 8 in the country, or world for that matter.




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END OF PAGE 3

2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IX //// 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart //// 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage LS //// 1990 Mazda Miata MX-5


#5 Kroric

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Posted 16 June 2016 - 10:25 AM

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Donor vehicle


The Nissan Leaf is hideous and underpowered. The LiMnO2 cells inside however are excellent. They represent the state of the art in automotive applications of Lithium ion chemistry cells.




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Patient to O.R.


Getting the Li ion pack out of the car and on the table proved to be a formidable task. That mother weighs over 500lbs.


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Oh boy


Lets open her up!




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Schewf!


Very happy to see that I didn't buy a pile of junk. That was a pretty big gamble!




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DANGER!


Must be careful as there is anywhere between 360-400VDC sitting in this baby. Here is a pic showing the removal of a 12 module unit for testing.




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Vitals please...




Cells are very healthy and in the condition that they ship from the manufacturer. This leads me to believe that these cells are brand new which is good news for making big power!




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Its very nice to have OEM levels of quality in the construction. I would have happily made my own bus bars, but these units from Nissan are so clean AND safe! All connections have a protective orange panel to prevent, well death I guess.




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END OF PAGE 4

2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IX //// 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart //// 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage LS //// 1990 Mazda Miata MX-5


#6 Kroric

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Posted 16 June 2016 - 10:27 AM

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Rear end nearing completion.


Rear differential is mounted. 95% of fuel components have been removed.
Driveshaft is on the slowest Fed Ex truck in all of recorded history:o. New rear wheel bearings and stop tech rotors are on order. Once those items are implemented the rear end will be finished (for now). I do plan to revisit the rear end after the vehicle is running and I'd like to conduct a complete white line bushing replacement.




I spent most of my Sunday slowly taking all the crap off the gearbox, but I'm only 1/2 way there. Polyurethane bushings will be accompanying the gearbox when it makes its debut in the 'motor-bay'


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New fluid and the gearbox resurrection will be complete.



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END OF PAGE 5

2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IX //// 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart //// 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage LS //// 1990 Mazda Miata MX-5


#7 Kroric

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Posted 16 June 2016 - 10:30 AM

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fatigued rear bearing


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fresh!


I wire brushed and PB Blasted the splined axle fittings and then covered them in Lithium compound grease. A local shop pressed in the new bearings!


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Dash rejuvenation


Treating the dash panel with Mothers VLR


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After looking at the dash, I'm thinking a good mounting place for my controller interface module would be the original radio position. I would like to mount it flush, like one would mount a gauge pod. I don't like the suction cup idea.


Here is a pic


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Although. . .


This one is much better looking


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END OF PAGE 6

2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IX //// 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart //// 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage LS //// 1990 Mazda Miata MX-5


#8 Kroric

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Posted 16 June 2016 - 10:31 AM

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Mail day


A piece of the motor mount arrived today.


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A few more items arrived as well. Stay tuned for a very nice before/after pic *fingers crossed*


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Restoration ctd...

Here is a before & after of the rear passenger brake assembly. I plan to change out the MR Bilsteins for some HD units, but they are on backorder so I'll have to revisit the rear suspension later.


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END OF PAGE 7

2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IX //// 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart //// 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage LS //// 1990 Mazda Miata MX-5


#9 Kroric

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Posted 16 June 2016 - 10:33 AM

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OEM kicks

Thanks evo8black!

1 king size brillo pad, 1/2 bottle sonax, 1 bottle simple green and 4 sore fingers later the enkeis are looking a bit better. They are curbed quite bad and I think I'll have them powder-coated a darker shade when I change the tires out. These will serve as my 'daily' wheels and will eventually receive a low rolling resistance tire. I'm leaving the R888s on for now, because I will need to reorient the car when I go to drop in the motor/tranny.

I shipped off the tranny to have the custom adapter plate made. I should have it back in about 3 weeks and at that point, the car will really start to look unique :)

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JDM rear


I've been extremely busy lately and not at all pleased with how little progress I've made over the last couple weeks. I was able to sneak a used JDM rear on this evening and I find that the JDM rear looks even better in person than in pics.  Its the wrong color of course, but there is not much about this car that looks right anyway... :o

I've been in contact with the machinist who is manufacturing my motor-tranny adapter plate. They were skeptical about cutting the plate such that I could still affix the transfer case, but after a few emails and some pictures I think they are feeling confident. They are going to start fabricating everything later this week. *fingers crossed*

I'm hoping to mock up 1/2 of my battery pack this weekend, should I find a few free hours. That should make for a weird photo or two. Stay tuned :mitsu:


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Personal Reasons

Left work early today for "personal reasons," which everyone seems to think is code speak for private and very important. I was sick, sick of neglecting my project anyway. I placed 1/2 of my Lithium pack in the car and its almost a perfect fit. I had to snap a pic, because it looks so weird :D


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A short word on the Lithium cells: The above pic shows 24 modules in series. Each module is comprised of 4 pouch cells, 2 in series connected in parallel. The end result is that each module has a capacity of 66Ah and a nominal voltage of 7.5V. The power rating of the pack pictured is 11.9kW at a resting voltage of ~180V and contains about the equivalent energy my house would consume in 1 day.

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Some trimming required

So its almost a perfect fit. I will have to trim some of the bracket in order to move the pack further forward (~4"). Once moved, it appears that all 200lbs will be exactly balanced over the rear axles. I will likely shield the cabin and interior surfaces around the pack with some dielectric material, such as switchboard matting or the like.

This placement is not permanent, but I'm currently interested in providing proof of concept. I will be routinely monitoring my Lithium cells, so I'd like to keep them accessible while the project is still in build phase.


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Difficult decision


Was debating whether or not to use the factory fuse box,harness, and circuits. It would have been easier to piggy back my devices onto the preexisting setup, but I decided it will be much cleaner to rip it all out and wire up all circuits individually. So this happened:


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Had some alcohol

and sat in the cabin wondering where to put the other 1/2 of my Lithium pack. I think I'll run 2 stacks of 6 cells on each rear passenger seat. 12 on the driver's side and 12 on the passenger side. Each stack will be about 9" high and both stacks should be easy to affix with the Nissan brackets. In this fashion, the 4 door car becomes a 2 seater, which is not optimal{thumbdwn} Eventually, I'll fabricate a box to store these cells in the fuel tank area which should free up the back seat.


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One body piece left

Just received an OEM ix front. It was twice as expensive as a used viii front, but I think the relatively intricate ix front will better suit the electric power-plant. The mesh, brackets, hardware and lip should be arriving soon.


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END OF PAGE 8

2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IX //// 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart //// 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage LS //// 1990 Mazda Miata MX-5


#10 Kroric

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Posted 16 June 2016 - 10:35 AM

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^ Yes that is correct, battery placement is temporary.

From what I've been able to find on ncdmv.gov, there are no specific safety inspection points for electric vehicles. A safety inspection for ICE powered vehicles is a pretty straightforward checklist: tint, turn signals, brake lights, headlights, safety restraint, horn etc.

This project is pretty large, so I've broken it down into 3 discreet phases so its not as overwhelming.

Phase I: Build phase. Culmination of this phase is: the vehicle moves under its own power and all damage has been repaired.
*Current placement of Li cells is intended to promote expedient progression of this phase.
   - Repair damaged frame/body components
   - Replace missing body components
   - Inspect/Replace brake components: pads, rotors, fluid, MC
   - Replace wheel bearings (they were all considerably worn)
   - Replace worn suspension components (will revisit, Bilstein on backorder)
   - Repair and clean interior cabin components (cigarette smoke + 5 owners = nasty)
   - Mount transmission components (diff, axles, DS, TC, gearbox, wheels)
   - Mount DC motor
   - Mount Lithium cells
   - Mount Charger
   - Mount Controller
   - Construct high current circuit to include: contactors, fuses, inertia switch
   - Fabricate and mount DC motor air-cooling system
   - Fabricate and mount Controller water-cooling system
   - Construct aux circuits: lights, power windows, H20 pump, air pump, instruments, fan, wipers



Phase II: Inspection phase. This results in passing theft and safety inspections as well as re-titling the vehicle and insuring it for road use.
   - Vehicle alignment
   - NC DMV safety inspection (will require replacement of windshield and removal of window tint :rolleyes:)
   - NC DMV theft inspection
   - Procuring rebuilt title
   - Insuring vehicle
   - Registering vehicle for road use

Phase III: Modification and further improvement. This will probably be a separate thread. At the end of Phase II, the vehicle will be in raw form (stripped interior, no AC or PS). Improving efficiency, power, range and comfort will be the goal of this phase. At this point the vehicle will be painted. Probable criteria for this phase will not be limited to:
   - Exterior Paint OEM graphite gray
   - A/C system
   - Stereo
   - Lithium cell container
   - Back seat and carpet reinstalled
   - P/S system (depends)
   - Aerodynamic modifications (I'd like a full floor pan)
   - Aftermarket suspension bushings
   - Roof mounted solar array
   - Battery monitoring system
   - High power DC motor brushes for higher RPM
   - Low rolling resistance tires

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Mounted wheels


and I'm proud to report that there is finally an angle where the car doesn't look like a bag of turds.


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All the hardware for the front bumper cover showed up, hoping to mount the bumper cover this weekend.


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Wasn't able to do much this past weekend, but I did manage to rivet the upper-side brackets on the bumper cover.





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END OF PAGE 9

2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IX //// 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart //// 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage LS //// 1990 Mazda Miata MX-5


#11 Kroric

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Posted 16 June 2016 - 10:38 AM

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Finally starting to look like an evo


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Overdue update

Here is Frankenstein currently demonstrating parts from 7 different Evos. I finally have replaced all the body pieces . The original side-skirts are on my back porch and didn't make it on the car for the pic.


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Wrap?

I'm leaning toward wrapping the car in vinyl. 3M 1080 gloss anthracite seems to be close enough to Graphite Gray so that the door jambs won't clash. Doing a vinyl wrap job myself will cost about $4k less than paint and I'd much rather spend the savings on performance. Thoughts?


I believe this space ship is wrapped in 3M gloss anthracite

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The side that was hit



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big update

Machine shop has finished the adapter plate and its en-route to my house! Unforeseen circumstances not withstanding (ha) I'm hoping to mount the motor next weekend :D

I also just purchased the the motor controller, its the last large component of the build. It is not the unit I was planning to use, but I was able to save $1500 buying this one second hand from an electric-car forums. If properly cooled, this controller will provide 320kW of peak power, or 428hp.

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END OF PAGE 10

2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IX //// 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart //// 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage LS //// 1990 Mazda Miata MX-5


#12 Kroric

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Posted 16 June 2016 - 10:40 AM

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$850 of machined Aluminum


Pretty underwhelming I know, but it does mean that I can finally bolt the gearbox to the motor and position it in the motor-bay. Now if I only could find some spare time to do exactly that...


From left to right: spacer, hub for mounting flywheel to motor shaft, bell-housing adapter plate.

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Almost...

...had everything to mate the motor to the gearbox, but I bought the wrong hardware for the motor plates. I was operating off the manufacturer's schematic for the motor and evidently this particular motor was tapped for a different size bolt. Time to revisit the hardware store, hopefully they have a grade 8 offering in the size I need.


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END OF PAGE 11

2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IX //// 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart //// 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage LS //// 1990 Mazda Miata MX-5


#13 Kroric

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Posted 16 June 2016 - 10:42 AM

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Getting closer...

Waiting on some more hardware before I can mate the motor to the gearbox, but here is a shot of the flywheel and adapter pieces fitted.


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Replacing a front wheel bearing and painting the caliper.

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END OF PAGE 12

2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IX //// 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart //// 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage LS //// 1990 Mazda Miata MX-5


#14 Kroric

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Posted 16 June 2016 - 10:44 AM

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headaches

... are bound to occur when undertaking a project as weird as this.  I was excited at the prospect of mating motor to gearbox and posting a picture, but there is an issue preventing me from doing so.

The measurement on my calipers should read 16.4mm. It appears the machinist who produced my hub was not aware of the dimensions I submitted for the flywheel hub adapter length. As a result, the flywheel hub adapter is 16mm too long and I'm unable to squeeze the flywheel/clutch assembly into the gearbox bell-housing without producing a gap between the mating surfaces.

The fix should be simple: take hub to local machinist and have them lop 16mm off the inside. I doubt this will happen before everyone checks out for turkey day so the project will stagnate. In the between time, I will focus my efforts on other tasks to ready the vehicle. More updates to come:mitsu:

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I did a thing.

No clutch or flywheel inside, awaiting machine shop to send the correct spacer ring.
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Overall length will increase by 16mm when the larger spacer is fitted, but there is enough room.
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Sitting low, motor shaft is about 1" below frame rails
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END OF PAGE 13

2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IX //// 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart //// 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage LS //// 1990 Mazda Miata MX-5


#15 Kroric

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Posted 16 June 2016 - 10:45 AM

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finalizing frame

Evo is being sent to a local body shop so that my frame repair efforts can be checked by professionals. After mock installing the motor and tranny, I'm ready to fabricate one of the motor mounts. I want to be sure everything is square first. The body shop isn't giving me a timeline, so in the interim I will focus my efforts on other smaller sub-projects.

Things I hope to finish before the Evo is returned to me:

-Order clutch slave cylinder and braided line.
-Order front motor mount.
-Clean up drive-shaft.
-Order drive-shaft flange bolts.
-Clean up Transfer case.
-Order replacement bolts for transfer case.
-Receive correct transmission spacer from machinist.

Once these tasks are complete and the Evo is returned to me, I will mount the entire power-train and change all transmission fluids. At that point, the motor should turn the wheels if I apply a voltage from one of my Lithium packs.





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Miscellaneous items

This bracket will serve as a piece connecting the motor to the passenger side motor mount.

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Started cleaning the transfer case, there are many layers of oxidation to clear away

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Not completely finished, but it is getting better

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Thanks for the kind words. :)

I'm actually using a single disc clutch at the moment. The twin disc I spoke of earlier was in regards to a previous car I owned, which was a turbocharged ICE. You are correct: a zero rpm idle means I don't have to shift into neutral to remain stationary, which is why many EV converts just leave their transmission in 3rd or 4th gear (for comfort) and rarely shift. Coasting to a stop while in gear won't stall the electric motor like it would an ICE.

Consider a similar scenario for both a 4g63t powered Evo and a Warp 11 powered Evo (with out any slew effect).

Scenario 1: Spirited street driving a 4g63t powered Evo making 400ftlbs peak torque, 1st-2nd gear
You casually pull away from a stop. You slip the clutch at 800rpm and then go WOT. At 800rpm, the 4g63t is making less than 100ftlbs. Then, as you accelerate and the rpm increases, the motor gradually produces more and more torque until you hit your peak output at ~3500-4000rpm (depending on displacement, turbo, cams, fuel etc). If you have a nice tune, you can hold most of that torque until about 6000-7000rpm where you shift into 2nd and then slow down so you don't get a ticket.

Scenario 2: Spirited street driving a Warp 11 powered Evo making 400ftlbs peak torque, 1st-2nd gear
You casually pull away from a stop. You don't rev to 800rpm and you don't slip the clutch because your motor is electric and its 'idling' even though its not turning. You're already in gear while sitting at a stop. Your foot off the clutch pedal, no noise is coming from the engine bay and your tach reads 0 rpm. You depress the accelerator and immediately achieve peak torque output as you catapult forward. If you have a well cooled motor and controller, you can hold most of that torque until about 5000rpm where you shift into the next gear and blah blah blah.

Here is a dyno of a small electric motor. The torque curve is almost exactly backwards of what you'd expect from a turbocharged ICE.

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The unique aspect of a Warp 11 motor is that: you can have all the instant power of a 2-step, high boost launch, but at zero rpm. All of this adrenaline comes with relatively little noise too, just some whooshing of your cooing fan.

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Here is the DC motor controller I intend to use, a Manzanita Zilla 1-K HV. It has a peak power output somewhere in the neighborhood of 300kW which is about 400hp. It is capable of delivering 1000A current to the motor at an efficiency rate of +98%


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update

Evo is still at the body shop, but I've been told it could be on the machine as early as last week. I met with the shop foreman to talk about my plans for the car and he was extremely insightful albeit very busy.

I have started load testing the LEAF modules to discern their exact capacity. So far things look great.


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END OF PAGE 14

2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IX //// 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart //// 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage LS //// 1990 Mazda Miata MX-5


#16 Kroric

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Posted 16 June 2016 - 10:54 AM

PAGE 15

Not really any updates just discussion on different EV vehicles. One of the examples he gives is of an EV Escalade, the builder actually made an account and commented on it. So that was the biggest thing from this page.

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There are really no definitive peak limits published for this motor. Statistics are hard to find due to the EV conversion market's relatively small size. Fortunately, many EV builders publish their experiences and data for reference. A great source of information, second only to company engineers, are first hand accounts. An engineer at Warfield electric has explained that 160V is a safe maximum for the warp 11. If heat issues can be mitigated, 1000-1200 amps can be a safe daily drive-able peak current limit.

Yet, there are examples of warp 11s running at much higher power levels.

EVTV Escalade
The guys at EVTV are an excellent resource for the EV DIYer, as they share empirical data via their on-location web show. They can be a bit long winded, but are very knowledgeable. Here Jack explains the software controlling his twin motor/twin controller set up for the Escalade. It appears they are providing a maximum of 192kW for each warp 11. If you're interested scroll to the 78:00 mark.
https://www.youtube....h?v=qGxBR5WRx7k

Bloodshed motors' '68 fastback
This '68 twin warp 11 mustang is making 800hp and 1800ftlbs. That is roughly 300kW per motor and he has set a couple standing mile world records with this car. I can't say this with any certainty, but at these power levels I assume he must have additional  cooling for the commutator, CO2 perhaps.
Translogic 180: Zombie 222 Electric '68 Mustang - YouTube

EV West twin motor E36 M3
This car is a 400kW twin warp 11 car with a 2 speed transmission. In this video it makes 850ftlbs on a chassis dyno.
This Electric E36 Makes 850 lb/ft of Torque at the Wheels! - /TUNED - YouTube

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Here's what we know about AC/DC.

Netgain Motors makes a superb series DC motor in the Warp 11.  And there is NO known motor configuration that provides as much torque per ampere of current in as a series DC motor.  This is because the same full current that goes through the stator also goes through the rotor and the two resulting fields are simply the maximum you can do in an electric motor.

Further, motors don't really have a power limit because electric motors do not make power.  They translate electrical current into rotary axial torque.

You can put an infinite amount of current in and produce an infinite amount of torque - right up to the point where the insulation and/or current conductors break down and let the magic smoke out. At that point, they don't make any power at all.

A HP rating of an electric motor is very different.  It is the maximum power that can be put INTO the motor for a continous period of one hour without burning up the windings.  So a 50 hp electric motor can easily make 800 hp, but not for an hour.  For a minute yes.  An hour no.  12 seconds in a quarter mile, definitely.

We have the Siemens motor you refer to and in fact are the source of them.  Siemens doesn't even have any more.  We got them from the Azure Dynamics bankruptcy auction and a subsequent purchase of all of Siemens remaining inventory.  We also have a few of the DMOC645 controllers left. http://store.evtv.me

We actually don't even carry DC motors any more and sell only AC induction and brushless permanent magnet AC motors.

Why?

It's really very simple and very good news.  The batteries have gotten better.  With modern Liithium ion batteries, you can put enough batteries into a car to drive at freeway speeds for an hour or even two.

What has that got to do with the motors?  Cooling.   With lead batteries we couldn't go far enough to burn up a Warp 11.  We can now.  As you go down the highway, if you use just a little more power than the motor can dissipate it gradually builds up a heat surplus.  At some point, it melts down.  And we have numerous examples of Warp9 and Warp11 burnouts NOT because they were producing too much power, they were just producing it too long.  

We've tried blowers and all sorts of cooling arrangements.  There's just not a way to remove enough heat with air cooling.  You have to water cool an electric motor if you want to drive it for two hours continously.

There is no effective way to water cool a series DC motor because of the brushes and commutator.  AC motors are almost ALWAYS water cooled.

HPEVS has even run into the same thing with their air cooled AC motors.  Good for golf carts.  Not for EVs.  They just eventually burn up.

And so water cooled AC motors have just taken over hte game.  This is what teh OEM's ALL use and that is the reason.  It's  a simple but cruel thermal management issue.

Warp11's continous their dominance in drag racing adn running the Texas Mile.  But they are pretty much gone from the street car scene as the batteries have made longer ranges available.

If you want an inexpensive street car wiht a light battery doing 50 miles on a charge or errands, a Warp9 still works.  But nobody really wants that.  They all want 100 miles on a charge and a car they can rely on on the freeway.

Jack Rickard

END OF PAGE 15

2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IX //// 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart //// 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage LS //// 1990 Mazda Miata MX-5


#17 Kroric

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Posted 16 June 2016 - 10:56 AM

PAGE 16

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much excite!
Body shop claims Evo will be complete at the beginning of next week!

I'm working my way through the pack configuration for the first drive. To reduce variables for initial testing, I will use this 24S module configuration. I've tested 36 of the 96 cells in this configuration and they look good thus far.  I eagerly anticipate the performance I believe these cells will deliver when discharged at a higher rate.

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Remaining components for motor-gearbox unit. Hopefully I can find some time to put it all together, so it can drop right in when the Evo returns.

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body shop
Went by to check out work, looks good.

They made an adjustment to the passenger side strut tower, but were unable to quantify the amount. They also hit the radiator support with some paint and glued the frame rail-apron joint. I wasn't able to give their work the white glove treatment, but at first glance I'm pleased. Here are a couple shots of the car on the frame machine.


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Back From Body Shop!

Three months later, its back in my garage!

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Clean and new.

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TOB was looking tired.

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Very pleased with paint and adhesive work, looks much cleaner. One more mount to fabricate before transfer case and front axles go in.

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ancillary projects

I have several parts orders incoming that will allow me to finish motor positioning and installation of the remaining drive-line components. Until they arrive, I will concern myself with other aspects of the vehicle that require attention. The tint that was previously installed would have caused an inspection failure.  I had a free hour yesterday, so I started removing it.


Using heat and an ammonia based cleaner, I was able to separate the adhesive from the glass.

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Admittedly, my method produced varying results.

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Almost finished before I had to call it quits.

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END OF PAGE 16

2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IX //// 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart //// 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage LS //// 1990 Mazda Miata MX-5


#18 Kroric

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Posted 16 June 2016 - 10:58 AM

PAGE 17

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Drive-shaft Resurrection


Rust removal and refurbishment in progress.

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New drive-shaft hardware and solid carrier bearing mounts


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Productive Saturday


Some TEIN basics arrived in the mail today. I wanted to replace my MR setup with some HD Bilsteins, but these lightly used TEINs were a much less expensive and they give me ride height adjustablity.

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Spent a couple hours on the evo today. A couple hours more and the entire drive-train and new suspension components will be installed.

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Big change

There were some fitment issues with the 11" motor, so I got a 9" motor. The 9" motor weighs about 80lbs less and makes more torque at higher rpm. It has smaller dimensions, so I will have room for two of them. Once the vehicle is operational, I will install a 2nd motor in series.


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State of the Union (of a DC motor and an Evo)

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NEXT UP:
1. Front axles are being resurrected.
2. Front drive-shaft has been resurrected and is awaiting installation.
3. Shift Cables are standing by to be cleaned up and installed.
4. Motor mount will be welded up this coming weekend.
5. Gear box, TC, and rear diff fluids will be replaced.
6. Clutch slave is mounted, fluid will be replaced and bled.
7. DRIVE TRAIN POWER TEST!

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Thanks guys. I'm looking forward to finishing up the drive-train once and for all this weekend, so I can progress on to controller and battery installation. The best I've been able to estimate, by looking up weight reduction threads, is detailed below. Here is my math:

3220  Stock 2005 MR with no fuel (from a curb weight thread on these forums)
-0058  exhaust
-0017  rear bumper support
-0011  air bags
-0008  wiper fulid + tank
-0038  spare tire, tools, jack
-0035  OEM battery
-0030  A/C comp + condenser
-0007  wing
-0011  fmic spray + fluid
-0018  Radiator and fan
-0011  OEM FMIC
-0014  Firewall insulation and misc parts
-0011  Power steering pump
-0031  Rear seat and seat belts
-0012  Intake manifold and EGR
-0350  4G63t and accessories
-0009  Fuel evap components
-0032  Fuel tank
-0030  Fuel lines and misc hardware
-0012  ABS
-0010  Coilover swap
-0030  Engine, chassis wiring loom and parts
-0015 AYC pump, lines, mounting hardware
-------------------------------------------
  2420 stripped form (assuming full interior except for rear seat+belts)

+0145 Warp 9 motor
+0200 182v Li Pack (24 LEAF Modules)
+0015 Controller
+0015 Controller coolant system
+0020 High current wiring
------------------------------------
  2815 low power EV form (260hp/210tq) 1:10.8 power to weight ratio

+0160 2nd motor and hardware
+0160 fuel tank battery pack for 330v
-------------------------------------------------
3135 high power EV form (450hp/420tq) 1:7 power to weight ratio

* I didn't include weight of the charger. It will be left in the vehicle for commuting purposes, but will be removed for track events.

END OF PAGE 17

2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IX //// 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart //// 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage LS //// 1990 Mazda Miata MX-5


#19 Kroric

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Posted 16 June 2016 - 11:02 AM

PAGE 18

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Front Axles


Front axle resurrection


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Driver side going in


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Decided to install ARP extended lug studs and use a spacer


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All new components in place


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stuff
nearing function test

Fabricated Pass side motor mount (version 1)

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Checking out ride height, too low. Lithium pack not installed, so rear would drop a bit further.

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Tranny fluid
No, this isn't a post about LGBTQ issues


I have been extremely busy, but I was able to change gearbox and T/C fluids around midnight last night.

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Easiest oil change I've ever done.


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Crimping
a lug for the 4/0 AWG motor cable. This was the final step before a power test.


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bad news

Performed a power test over the weekend. Apparently my evo is only FWD. While on jack stands (all 4 wheels off the ground) there was a loud RPM dependent knocking noise coming from the T-case area when I applied a 12v power source to the motor. The drive-shaft was not spinning, however I was able to manually turn the driveshaft (with considerable effort) which turned the rear wheels. I spoke with Rocky at Shep Trans and decided to send my T-case off for a rebuild. I was too disheartened to take a video. Moral of the story: beware buying a used T-case from members on the forums!

END OF PAGE 18

2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IX //// 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart //// 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage LS //// 1990 Mazda Miata MX-5


#20 Kroric

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Posted 16 June 2016 - 11:04 AM

PAGE 19

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Front Mount Controller Cooler

Its not as beasty as a FMIC, but I had to position it up front to keep the evo look. This is a radiator for a Yamaha UTV made by Mishimoto.


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CLEAN
air is important to me. Given that this was a smoker's vehicle once, I decided to remove the HVAC motor unit and air handler apparatus for inspection and a thorough cleaning. Removing the plastic mass resulted in 16 lbs of weight savings, although I intend to reinstall it later this year.


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First Drive Test Approaching

Here is the to-do list before a drive-way test is possible. The driveway test will be a simple ordeal, but hugely significant. It will confirm the functionality (albeit at low speed) of several used parts: gear box, motor controller, rear diff, hall effect pedal assembly, etc.


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Beginning fabrication of a very simple, yet sturdy mount. I will replace the hose barbs with -6 AN fittings for the coolant plate. It is entirely unnecessary, but I think AN coolant lines will look cleaner.


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Metal shavings everywhere
Bracket construction in full swing.


Cutting angle iron for FMCC bracket.

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A sundry lot of AN fittings for the cooling system. I removed the Mishimoto 'M' from the radiator core, looks better IMO.

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Weld in AN fitting for feed and return lines.

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Controller Mount
Simultaneous construction of controller mount with the intent of minimizing clean up time.


A hodgepodge of aluminum and iron brackets held together by M6 bolts with locking nuts and generous applications of JB weld. The bracket is about 1/2 done and will have 4 points of contact and a total of 7 bolts anchoring it to the engine bay. I'm thinking it might deserve a nice wrinkle black finish once complete.

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This design should give me a short route from the controller to the motor terminals, thus reducing length and consequently the resistance of the motor cables.

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But where does the turbo go?
I'm thinking like this :P


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END OF PAGE 19

2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IX //// 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart //// 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage LS //// 1990 Mazda Miata MX-5





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